The sun and blue sky were out again in defiance of the weather forecast. It was the full vegetarian c/o Paul and Joanne Lound with mustard and tobasco for Peter. The Haddon House hotel was charming – the bath with a TV ideal for a post-trek soak.
We found our sign with the acorn symbol by the beach but I struggled to see any sign up the sheer wall of mud and grass covering the side of a cliff. “That is the path” Peter assured me – at this point I did not believe I could ascend something so close to vertical with no steps or tail.
We knew our guest walker, Sarah, was on her way westwards to meet us. With no other option available, I reluctantly stabbed one pole into the earth ahead of the other and pulled my nervous legs up behind me. I kept my centre of gravity firmly forwards with my backpack tilting to my head – resembling a tortoise I went up the cliff. There was a minor wobble about halfway when I really didn’t think I could get to the top but Pete was both reassuring and practical – I was half way – both up and down!
We met up with Sarah and headed up and down the beautiful Coast Path to Hive Beach. After that we recklessly took the summer path to avoid the shingle on the beach and there was a lot of mud.
In the end, there was no avoiding a painful hour of shingle to West Bexington.
Lunch for me was a “simple” roasted cauliflower, caramelised cauliflower jus, romesco sauce and salsa verde. I’d highly recommend the Clubhouse, not only the excellent menu but the art deco style loos.
Then Sarah headed westwards for a night under canvass and we made our way back to the shingle towards Abbotsbury, prepared for the rain to come.
The rain didn’t dampen our enthusiasm. Peter spotted a hare inland.
The rain abated and our path led us inland to the pretty Abbotsbury where we heard a cuckoo. My second challenge of the day was stomping through a field of cows. After that there was a steep ascent back up to the high cliff with awesome Jurassic coast views, in all directions and the sea visible behind us, Chesil beach and the lagoon to the south and Portland Bill ahead.
The leg from Abbotsbury to Langton Herring was an effort but we made it to the welcoming Elm Tree Inn.
It was a 48 minute 2 miles or so and one last long hill, from there to Chickerell, arriving at our airbnb as we lost the light. We dumped our bags, poles and my gaiters and grabbed vegetarian suppers in baskets at the atmospheric Luggers Inn before a soak in muscle relaxing salts offered us by Maddie – thank you!
Around the world with hand luggage (only) 
Ha, Ha, Ha, I remember climbing the ‘great wall’ at West Bay, thanks for the memory.
When I first came to Salisbury, I walk the River Brit from Beaminster into West Bay.
Did you visit St Catherines Chapel at Abbotsbury? I loved the views of the Fleet too, especially from the bus into Bridport!
I used to visit Abbotsbury a lot as a friend lived there but she has moved to Weymouth now!
Lesley xx
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